Inwangsan and Guksadang
A granite hill in Seoul where mudang, the shamans of Korea, hold gut rites at rock shrines and the Guksadang.
Practised and told of here
Best time: April to June and September to October; check with a local guide for gut dates.
Inwangsan, west of the old palaces, has been regarded as a seat of spirit power for centuries. Beneath its rock outcrops are shrines used by mudang, mostly women, for gut, rites with song, dance and offerings.
The mudang
A mudang is chosen by a spirit sickness, shinbyeong, which can end only if she takes up the role through an initiation rite called naerim-gut. She serves ancestors, gods and local spirits for families who ask her for help in illness or in business. Korean shamanism has been called backward by modernisers, and the Saemaul movement in the 1970s destroyed many shrines.
Guksadang and today
The Guksadang is a shrine for the national protector spirits, moved to Inwangsan in the early twentieth century. Gut now draw fans of the music and of Korean heritage as well as clients. Some Christians in Korea oppose these rites, and some in the community speak of harassment.
Visiting
Gut are paid for by a family and held for them. Ask before photographing and do not enter the shrine room if a rite is in progress.
A respectful visit to Inwangsan and Guksadang
Living communities are not a show. Ask before photographing a person or a ceremony, and follow local rules.
- Seonbawi rock Look at the rock where people leave offerings.
- The Guksadang Visit the shrine of the national protector spirits.
- The old Seoul wall Follow the city wall trail.
- Seochon Walk through the old neighbourhood below.
Written by the EveryJaadu desk with AI assistance. Background: "Inwangsan" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets and ceremonies change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.
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