Tarapith

The goddess and the ground

Tara here is a fierce, protective form of the mother goddess. Bengali Tantric tradition places her worship near burning grounds, where practitioners say the world's impermanence is plainest. The saint Bamakhepa, known as the mad saint, is remembered as a devotee who ate offerings meant for the dead and sat on the pyre; his tale is told as a mark of his closeness to the goddess.

Scholars and sceptics

Anthropologists describe Tarapith as a place where Bengali Hindus bring family worries, illness and exam results to a goddess they see as accessible and quick to answer. Some Tantric sadhus live nearby, and their dress and rites draw tourists who are sometimes disrespectful.

Visiting

Do not photograph the cremation ground or any funeral. Sadhus ask for alms for their living, and visitors should give or refuse politely rather than ask for a blessing as a show.

A respectful visit to Tarapith

Living communities are not a show. Ask before photographing a person or a ceremony, and follow local rules.

1. The Tara temple Join the line with pilgrims and watch the offering of flowers and sweets.
2. The pond near the temple See where devotees bathe before the visit.
3. The Bamakhepa ashram Sit quietly and read the story of the saint.
4. The river bank Stay at the edge of the cremation ground and keep at a distance.