Lhasa
The old Tibetan capital, with the Jokhang Temple at its centre and a long tradition of ritual protection and oracle consultation.
Practised and told of here
Best time: May to October.
Lhasa sits on a high plain in central Tibet. The Jokhang, founded in the seventh century, is Tibet's most sacred temple, and the Potala palace above it held the Dalai Lama's court.
Ritual and protection
The geography of the city, as Tibetans describe it, includes a demoness lying across the land whose body was pinned down by temples. Monks and lay people use mantra, prayer flags, butter lamps and amulet cords as protection. The state oracle of Nechung once stood on the city's edge.
Present conditions
Religious life is tightly controlled by the Chinese state, and monks and lay people face limits on what they may do and say. Pilgrims still circle the Jokhang each day, and travellers need permits and a guide.
Visiting
Visit with the required permits. Do not photograph pilgrims' faces without asking, and do not give out images of the Dalai Lama; it can cause trouble for local people.
A respectful visit to Lhasa
Living communities are not a show. Ask before photographing a person or a ceremony, and follow local rules.
- Barkhor circuit Walk clockwise with pilgrims around the Jokhang.
- Jokhang Temple See the butter lamps and the image of Jowo Shakyamuni.
- Drepung and Sera monasteries Visit the large monastic colleges near the city.
- Potala Palace Climb through the palace's long rooms.
Written by the EveryJaadu desk with AI assistance. Background: "Lhasa" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets and ceremonies change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.
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