The Sepik River
A great river of northern Papua New Guinea, whose villages built spirit houses and carved figures for initiation, and where fear of sorcery and accusations of witchcraft remain a serious problem.
Practised and told of here
Best time: May to October, the drier months.
The Sepik peoples, such as the Iatmul, build large houses called haus tambaran, spirit houses, where men's initiation is held and carvings of ancestors are kept. The carvings are among the best known of Oceanic art.
Initiation and spirit houses
Rites, such as the boys' initiation with cuts on the skin, were done to link people with the crocodile spirit of the river and with the community's ancestors. Women and uninitiated people are barred from the inside of a haus tambaran. Missionaries and the state discouraged the rites, and they have changed.
Sorcery accusations
In Papua New Guinea, belief in sanguma or poisons and sorcery has led to violence. People, most often women and the elderly, have been tortured or killed after being blamed for deaths. The government repealed the Sorcery Act in 2013 and passed laws against such killings, but they continue in some provinces.
Visiting
Travel to the Sepik is by boat from Pagwi or Angoram, with an organised guide. Permission is needed for a village visit, and spirit houses are entered only when invited.
A respectful visit to The Sepik River
Living communities are not a show. Ask before photographing a person or a ceremony, and follow local rules.
- A village visit by invitation Ask the village elders and a guide.
- Haus tambaran at Kambaramba See the spirit house with a guide's consent.
- Crocodile Festival, Ambunti Attend a public event if offered.
Written by the EveryJaadu desk with AI assistance. Background: "Sepik" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets and ceremonies change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.
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