Mapuche lands: Temuco
The capital of Araucania in southern Chile, close to Mapuche communities whose spiritual leader is the machi, usually a woman, and whose rites include the nguillatun.
Practised and told of here
Best time: November to March for weather.
The Mapuche resisted the Inca and Spain, and kept self-rule until the 1880s. Their religion honours Ngenechen, the creator, and the spirits of the land, called ngen. The machi is a healer and a mediator, and is usually chosen through illness and calling.
The machi
A machi works with a drum, called a kultrun, painted with a world map, and with a rewe, a carved pole. Most machi are women, though some are men who may dress and act as women. Their rites include healing and the community ceremony called nguillatun, held for rain and for harvests.
Context
The Mapuche have faced loss of land and, in the twentieth and twenty-first centuries, conflict with the state and forestry firms. Spiritual leaders have been involved in protest and in the defence of sites considered sacred.
Visiting
Rites are for the community. Visitors can see the Mapuche museum in Temuco and the market, and take guided cultural tours run by Mapuche communities.
A respectful visit to Mapuche lands: Temuco
Living communities are not a show. Ask before photographing a person or a ceremony, and follow local rules.
- Museo Regional de la Araucania Learn the history.
- Feria Pinto market Look at Mapuche crafts and food.
- A Mapuche community tour Choose one run by the community itself.
Written by the EveryJaadu desk with AI assistance. Background: "Temuco" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets and ceremonies change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.
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