Grand Bazaar and the evil eye
A covered market where glass nazar beads in blue are sold in every size, and where the habit of warding off the eye is on show.
Practised and told of here
Best time: April to May, or September to November; mornings avoid crowds.
The Grand Bazaar has stood since the fifteenth century. Its lanes sell carpets, lamps and jewellery, and many shops sell the nazar boncugu, a blue glass bead with an eye in it.
The nazar
In Turkey, as in the wider eastern Mediterranean, people believe that a look of envy or praise can harm. The nazar bead is hung on babies, in cars and above doors as a guard against it. If one cracks, people say it has taken a hit. A related custom has people pour lead to see shapes in the cooling metal.
Islam and the eye
Many Muslims hold that the evil eye is real, and some Islamic authorities allow recitations such as Surah al-Falaq as protection, while holding that beads and charms are not allowed since they place trust in an object. This argument is open across the Muslim world.
Visiting
Prices at tourist shops are not fixed. Ask before photographing a stallholder or his goods. Most of what is sold is made for visitors.
A respectful visit to Grand Bazaar and the evil eye
Living communities are not a show. Ask before photographing a person or a ceremony, and follow local rules.
- The Kalpakcilar lane Look at shops of glass beads.
- Sufi lodge visit Attend a sema ceremony only at a venue that treats it as worship.
- Beyazit Mosque Walk to the mosque near the bazaar.
- The Egyptian Bazaar Compare the spice and herb stalls.
Written by the EveryJaadu desk with AI assistance. Background: "Grand Bazaar, Istanbul" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets and ceremonies change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.
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