Fez
A medieval Moroccan city of saints' shrines, schools and a medina where charms, written talismans and amulet sellers are part of daily life.
Practised and told of here
Best time: March to May and September to November.
Fez el-Bali is one of the largest car-free old cities in the world. Al-Qarawiyyin, founded in the ninth century, is among the oldest continuing universities.
Saints and schools
Moroccans consult shrines of holy people for blessings and cures. The medina has the tomb of Moulay Idris II, a major centre of devotion. Sufi orders, such as the Tijaniyya, have their roots here. Scholars of the Maghreb have long written manuals of talismans, and some, such as al-Buni, shaped later Arabic magical works.
Charms in the lanes
Stalls sell amulets, and written talismans are made by fqih, men educated in religion. Beliefs about the evil eye and the jinn are widespread, and the hand of Fatima, khamsa, is common. Moroccan law punishes some acts of sorcery and fraud.
Visiting
Do not enter mosques or shrines not open to non-Muslims. Hire a licensed guide for the lanes and ask before photographing any person.
A respectful visit to Fez
Living communities are not a show. Ask before photographing a person or a ceremony, and follow local rules.
- Bab Boujloud Enter through the blue gate.
- The Zawiya of Moulay Idris II Watch the entry from outside.
- Al-Attarine souk Smell the herb and spice shops.
- Chouara tannery Look across from the terraces.
Written by the EveryJaadu desk with AI assistance. Background: "Fez, Morocco" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets and ceremonies change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.
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