Chichicastenango
A Maya K'iche' town in the Guatemalan highlands where the church steps are used for Catholic and Maya rites, with incense burned and candles lit.
Practised and told of here
Best time: Thursday and Sunday market days, and the December festival of Santo Tomas.
Chichicastenango is known for its market on Thursdays and Sundays. The Church of Santo Tomas, built in 1540 on a Maya platform, has steps where K'iche' ajq'ij, the day-keepers, burn copal and offer prayers. The calendar of 260 days, the Cholq'ij, is still counted.
Practice
The ajq'ij is a diviner who reads the day signs and seeds, and who offers advice. Maya spiritual guides in Guatemala were persecuted during the civil war, and ceremony has been revived in recent decades. Some rites are public, others not.
Pascual Abaj
A shrine on a hill outside the town holds a stone figure that K'iche' groups use for offerings. Visitors who go with a guide are asked to leave the area as they find it.
Visiting
Visitors should not photograph the people burning incense on the steps, and should not enter the church by the main stairs, which are reserved for rites.
A respectful visit to Chichicastenango
Living communities are not a show. Ask before photographing a person or a ceremony, and follow local rules.
- Santo Tomas church steps Watch from the side with respect.
- The market Buy textiles and masks.
- Pascual Abaj Visit with a local guide and ask before photographing.
Written by the EveryJaadu desk with AI assistance. Background: "Chichicastenango" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets and ceremonies change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.
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