Khan el-Khalili and the zar
A medieval market in Cairo where amulets and incense are sold, and where the zar healing rite is still held for those who believe they are visited by spirits.
Practised and told of here
Best time: October to April.
Khan el-Khalili has been a market since the fourteenth century. Near it are old mosques and the neighbourhoods where many shops sell incense, silver and amulets.
Amulets and scents
Stalls sell Qur'anic verses in silver cases, blue beads and incense for warding off the eye. Cairo's attarin, the herb and spice sellers, supply what customers ask for, and many people also consult sheikhs for written charms.
The zar
In a zar, mostly women gather with a leader called a kudia, with drums, incense and song, to meet spirits believed to cause illness or low mood. The spirit is invited to speak and is given its favourite food and music. Zar was long criticised by religious authorities and doctors, and the number of groups in Egypt has shrunk. Some now perform at cultural venues for audiences.
Visiting
A staged zar show at a venue is a performance, different from a healing rite. Private rites should not be filmed. Prices in the market are bargained.
A respectful visit to Khan el-Khalili and the zar
Living communities are not a show. Ask before photographing a person or a ceremony, and follow local rules.
- The Al-Hussein mosque Visit the mosque beside the market.
- The spice lanes See the incense, herbs and amulets.
- Mazaher at a performance hall Attend a staged zar for context and understand its limits.
- Al-Azhar park Walk the garden nearby.
Written by the EveryJaadu desk with AI assistance. Background: "Khan el-Khalili" on Wikipedia. Opening hours, markets and ceremonies change; check locally before travelling. If something is wrong, tell us.
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